An Brief Overview on Mini Pigs

Iris the patriarch.

Before you bring your pig home!

When it has been decided that you are going to bring your new pig home.  Make a mental list of what you will need.

Here are some helpful hints: 

Have a travel carrier,  old towel and treats handy.  Is your area secured?   Are you keeping him in or out or both?  Do you have a veterinarian lined up in case of injury and to provide shots and worming?  Have you purchased a book on potbellies?  Have you read it?  Do you have feed?  Line up a local source of mini pig feed.  A litter box, food dishes, a bed, piglet or dog house.  Have a harness handy.  Have you checked your area laws, can you have a pig for a pet?   Do you have a good relationship with your neighbors?  If you rent, do you have permission to have pets?  Have a fishing net handy to help catch the little bugger in case he strays. Also, line up a kennel to care for your pig in case you leave on vacation or something.

Here are some questions to ask your breeder:

How old is the piglets mother and father.  Can you see them.  Are they registered?  Can you see their papers?  How many were in the litter?  How are they kept?  Is there a health guarantee?  A size guarantee...in writing?   Are there restrictions in use, i.e.: pet quality, breeder, spay or neuter contracts, and or will you breeder accept the piglet back at any time?  Is there a money back guarantee (very rare)?  Is the breeder willing to give you their home number for emergencies, or follow up/advice?  Do they have info for you,  records on neutering, worming and vaccinations?  Has the piglet been handled?  When was it weaned?  What is it eating now?  How much? after all that:Check references.   Call the breed association.  Talk to other breeders and  Talk to other owners.

After considering all the information you have dug up, remember, it is your choice and the breeder, god willing was honest in his representation to you.  It is your financial responsibility to care for the pig.  Do not expect the breeder to refund you money unless the pig dies of natural causes, which will have to be verified at your expense via autopsy.  Most breeders will take a pig back to place in a new home, but will not pay for it, or sell it for you.  So be real sure you want a pig.  ( they live up to 20 years!!!)

Bringing your piglet home:

When  you receive your new piglet, he or she will be frightened, nervous and confused. He will be very shy and evasive for the first three days or so.  During this time, it is recommended that you afford your new piglet with a safe, quite place to adjust to his new living environment. Introduce your piglet to all the members of your family, even pets, in a calm and easy manner. Just like humans, they do not like to be crowded at first, but will adjust and learn to enjoy the commotion and bustle of a busy household.

When you bring your pig home, have a small pen or room available for him to stay. In this room place a litter box, water and food. Also place a blanket or bedding material for him to snuggle up in.  Your piglet is used to sleeping with other piglets and he will be lonely for a few days. As you make friends with him, he will transfer his bond over to you and become your best friend. Have available some special treats to win him over.

Raisins  ,   Raw or unsalted nuts  ,   Fresh fruit  ,   Fresh vegetables ...

These will help in hastening your bond. As the old quote goes," the best way to win a pigs heart is through it's stomach". But remember...everything in moderation! To much of any one thing is not good for your pig or yourself.

Home:

You have your new piglet home now and you have placed him in a safe area to become accustomed to his new environment. Sit quietly in that area with some special treats and talk to your pig.

Hold him frequently and insist that he not squeal while you are holding him. Be patient. To him, you are a giant who is at least, a bit frightening. Pigs love their stomachs rubbed and love to be rubbed all over as well. Start with his belly and gently work your way up to his head. Avoid contact with his nose for the first few days, as it is very sensitive and he dose not want you to touch it. This will come in time as he learns to trust you.

Offer him some treats for being good. Reward only good behavior. You can carry your pig around, sit with him on the couch or in your bedroom. Normally within three days, your pig will follow you everywhere and will be well on his way to adjusting in your home. Provide a safe place for your piglet.

Have food and water available. Provide bedding material or a bed. Make sure your fences are in good repair. Buy a leash and harness if you plan on walking your pig. Most important: Avoid stress. Be calm and patient. But above all, give him lots of love and attention! We highly suggest that you buy a book on mini pig's. They are very helpful in giving directions on training and so on and can be found in most pet stores.

At this time we would like to express that it is our opinion that your pig would be most happy in its natural environment, which is outside.  Also, note, that pigs are very herd oriented and can and will die of loneliness.  If you plan on leaving quite a bit and do not have a friend for you piggy, plan on keeping two potbellies.  Of course, get them at different time, about 5 to 6 months apart is nice.  Your pig will need at least 8 feet by 8 feet for his own pen and it is preferred 16 by 16 for each animal, though they can be kept in smaller areas, they tend to root it all up and you will have the traditional pig sty in your yard.  Potbellies need free access to fresh clean water at all times and shelter with shade available as well in warm summer months.

Feeding Guidelines:

Your pet pig should receive 1 & 1/2 cup of Potbelly pig pellets a day. In addition, you may give him up to 2 cups a day of fresh fruit or 1/2 cup of fresh unsalted nuts or raisins but we do not recommend you do this on a daily basis..

Do not overfeed your pig. It is very unhealthy for them to be overweight. It causes hoof and leg problems. Do not feed your pig dog or cat food. Avoid meat and excessive salt and chocolate. Potbellies cannot sweat so they can't rid their bodies of salt if they have ingested large quantities.  You also do not want to starve your pig.  Choose a high fiber low protein pellet-type ration for your pig and be consistent.  If you find you have put to much weight on him, by all means do not stop feeding him, just slowly feed him less until he is eating what he should have been. 

How can you tell if your pig is overweight?  Can you see its eyes?  Is there a roll of fat on her forehead?  Does her belly drag the ground?  Can she walk freely without limping?  These are a few signed that your pig is overweight.

Your pig needs access to water at all times. Preferably fresh clean water. Allowing your pig to graze at the park or in your back yard is very healthy for it. They enjoy fresh hay and grasses. They get their required minerals from rooting in the dirt for grubs and worms. If your pig seem to be over hungry, you can give him a cup of alfalfa pellets in addition to its regular pellets.  You may also give a handful of fresh grass or cut hay to give diversity in your feeding program.

Pigs have very slow metabolisms and convert their food very efficiently. Therefore, they get fat on a very little amount of feed. Do not give treats all the time, as the result will be a greedy, pushy fat piggy and although cute, can get to be a drag if your piggy is constantly bothering you and insisting on treats.

Note:  Breeding pigs demands for protein is considerably higher as well as volume, increase her intake gradually, up to 4 to 6 cups of pellets a day.  Once she ferrous, give her a warm bran mash instead of pellets for about 2 to 3 days, then start her regular feeding routine,  4 cups a day working up to 8 cups a day depending on how many piglets she's nursing. ( in general, add about 1/2 cup feed per piglet she's nursing.)

Potty training:

Your pig is a very clean and private animal. They will not eat or sleep where they potty if space is afforded to them. They will pick a corner and go there. Hence potty training tends to be much easier that traing a dog.

By placing your pig in a small room at first and putting his food, water, and bed in different corners, he will most likely pick the only corner left to potty in. Keep the litter box clean.

If your pig potties in a place you do not want him to, feed him there for a few days and he will readjust his train of thought to a new area. Pig poop is very hard and blackish. It is easily picked up with a tissue. It is excellent fertilizer and is very good for gardens and flowerbeds. This is a convenient way of getting rid of waste.

If kept outside they will also pick a potty spot.  Keep that area clean and remove waste on a regular basis.  Pigs kept in unclean area can get worms.

Behavior:

Your pig has been raised in a very safe and natural environment. It has been kept warm and dry in cold weather and cool in hot weather. It has had the comfort of having buddies to sleep with and has been accustomed to dogs, cats and other farm animals. Give him time and win his heart with special treats and soothing rub's around his belly and he will reward you with his love and devotion.

Do not leave small children unattended with your new piglet. It is unwise. Although your pig is more likely to run and hide ,than become aggressive, your pig knows when enough is enough, and your child doesn't. Potbellies will bite and it hurts.  Children need to be taught to respect their new pet and not to maul, hassle or provoke it. It is very rare for a potbelly pig to bite, but it can happen, if it is defending its own young or is severely harassed or cornered.

A potbelly is very well equipped to deal with dogs who might be a bit forward and hostile. A pig can and will defend itself by attacking back. When provoked, it will lower it's head, growl, and shake its head in a sharp manner from side to side with an upward motion. They slash with their tusks.

Your piglet will have very small teeth when you receive him and if he bites it will feel like a sharp pinch. Normally, if you experience this it is because you are putting your hands to close to its face in a threatening manner or, pushing your pig to it's limit by forcing it to do what you want. If your pig nips you, tell it sharply, "NO! BAD PIG!" and flick him sharply on the nose or hold his mouth shut only for a moment, then release the pig. Do not over punish.

Female behavior:  A females pig first pursuit in life is to reproduce.   She will come into heat about every 18 days or so.  Her gestation is 3 months, 3 weeks and 3 days.  If not bred, she will urinate often, kind of like placing a calling card if you will.  Saying, I'm here and I'm available, let go out....This is why it is best to spay your female pig.  It is natural for her and she will be very hard to potty train for the house.  Although if kept outside, you should have no problems.

Male behavior:  male is male, they live to breed.  They will fight all other males for this right to breed and pigs tend to fight to the death, especially captive pigs as there is no place to run.  A pig fight is a terrible sight and both boars normally come away from it hurt and bleeding.  Some boars can get quite aggressive with handlers and we feel cannot be trusted around small children,   especially when a female in heat is around.  Neuter all male pigs and give them a happier pet life.  A boars life is lonely, always kept apart from his girls, no friends, it no wonder they can get unpleasant.

Breeding vs. Pets:

Your pig has been sold to you as a pet, unless otherwise agreed to previously. It is highly recommended that you spay your female piglet. They make better pets and are easier to house train. It is best to spay before they are 6 months old.  Most male pigs are neutered at two weeks of age by the breeder, but should be done as soon as possible, before 3 months of age is preferred.  Male potbellies, left intact will become ever possessive of what they perceive as "their territory" and will defend it ruthlessly.  They also have a distinct odor they omit to attract their dream sow.   Unless you are intending to breed  and your boar has papers and is of breeding quality,  you should have it neutered.  It is our opinion that boars are unsuitable pets, in most cases.

It is not recommended that you breed your female pig. It is not a easy task to undertake and is best left to dedicated experienced breeders.  We cannot stress this point enough!  Animal husbandry should not be entered into lightly.  A female pig comes into her first heat at three month old, and can conceive.  Her own brother can breed her if he has not been neutered.  To many people get into breeding to make a quick buck with little or no knowledge of the breed of animal, quality standards, conformation, disposition and genetics.  Its a shame.  The result is overpopulation of a breed, to the point that no one  wants the animal anymore and there is no market.  Then, your pet potbelly pigs, become dinner.  Dinner for the wild dogs, coyotes, for farm dogs, zoo animals and yes, humans, they are after all pork, the other white meat.

Piglets are not born like puppies. They are much more frail and need a lot of attention. It can be very disappointing when you loose part of a litter.  Many sows have no problems delivering a litter, and many loose the whole litter, or  half, some sows die and prolapsed uterus is not uncommon.  It is necessary for the piglets to suckle their own mom.  If they do not do this within 9 to 24 hours, they will die.   We have seen a couple piglets live past 4 and 8 weeks but they died shortly after.   These orphan piglets tend to be quite smaller than other pigs, they do not eat well, they are irregular in their bowels, tending to either not poop or to have the runs.   Their skin gets very dry, they get dehydrated and have a painful miserable life up until their death.

If by chance you find your self trying to raise an orphan litter, God bless you.   Do what you can and keep the tissue handy.  Hand milk the sow if at all possible and feed the milk via an eye dropper to each piglet.  Fresh goats milk is very platable to pigs.  You can buy a powdered milk from your local feed store.  The piglet must be fed every two hours around the clock.  It should be kept in a warm, draft free environment with access to fresh clean water and bedding at all times.   You do not want them to warm, so avoid putting the heat lamp to close, we found that with a single pig, a heating pad on med. with a old towel did quite well.  Leave a small portion of formula out at all time, change it every two hours as well.  The sooner you get the piglet eating from a pan, the better for both of you.  Wipe the piglets butt area with a warm wet rag, keep him clean and you might rub on some hand lotion if he seems to dry skinned.  Avoid stress, no little kids handling them until after 2 weeks.  Also put out some softened pig pellets, and small bits of fresh fruit, the sooner the piglet eats solid food, the better.

Other worries about breeding is your pens, they must be predator proof.  piglets are very small when born, they can fit through a space 2 inches.  If your pig has young in an unclean and unsecured area, you run the risk of having piglets escape from the safety of their pen and becoming lost or eaten by predators i.e.: dogs, cats, raccoons and even chickens.  Also, if you provide to much bedding the sow can bury her young and smother them by laying on them.  provide a furrowing pen, make a small pen, 4 by 4 for a mini pig, put a heat lamp in one corner, section off the corner so that the young can enter to be warm, but the sow cannot lay in it or on it.

For these reasons, we highly recommend that you do not breed your female and make arrangements to have her spayed before she is a year old. Your female or intact male piglet becomes sexually active/mature at three months of age.

Hoof care:

It is best to start rasping your piglets feet as a young one. By doing this while he is young, you accustom him to having his feet handled and hooves filed down.

Equipment you will need for young piglets:

An old towel.

Finger nail rasp/Emery board.

Treats. 

Start by rubbing your pigs belly to calm him. Carefully hold one hoof at a time and file it from side to side. Be sure to not file them to short or your pig will be sore and it will interfere with his walking.

If your pig is to excited, place him snugly in a towel and continue. Remember to rasp only from side to side and be very careful not to take off too much of the hoof bottom. You will notice that, normally only the toes need be filed down. If the dew claws are sharp, you may file them lightly. Your Vet. can trim hooves if you are unable to. Our motto is " when in doubt, call the Vet.!" Better to be safe than sorry. After you have watched the process a few times, you will most likely feel comfortable performing this yourself.

For larger individuals:

You should have a helper or two.

A large fishing net.

A pair of nippers(as used on cattle and horse hooves).

A rasp.

And tons of patience and possibly ear plugs.

First start by catching the pig, we found the use of a large fishing net very helpful.  If you have two strong helpers, place the pig in the net, carefully.   Allow the legs to poke through the net and hang down.  To achieve this the net with pig inside must be adjusted to a height that allows the pig to be hanging, off the ground.  As soon as the pig is not touching the ground, it will stop squealing (in most cases).  Then carefully nip the toes and file them.  Make sure to take extreme care not to take to much hoof off, do not leave any sharp edges and do not slap or otherwise hurt the pig, for it will remember this and be twice wary if it has a bad experience.  Reward with a favorite treat and release. 

In closing:

Another way to avoid the stress and trauma of hoof trimming is to allow the pig access to pavement or cement.  By placing a small cement pad in front of his bed/house entry, he will file his hooves down on his own.  Regular exercise on a sidewalk or pavement is also beneficial for hoof maintenance.

Tusk maintenance:

It is best to have your pigs teeth maintained by a experienced vet.  To have the tusks trimmed, the pig should be given a sedative and then the teeth are either sawed, cut or ground down depending on the method in which you vet feel most comfortable.   We never had a problem with the tusks, but know many people do.  We feel it is best left to a professional.

Shots and worming:

Your pig should be wormed every 3 to 6 months.  Preferable with Ivermectrin (for swine) injectable shot, 1cc per 100 lbs live weight, you may also use piperazine water wormer as a drench.  Your pig should have a series of shots and it varies from state to state and from area to area, we recommend a basic tetanus shot, 7 way and rabies.  Ask a large vet what shots he is giving to farm swine and follow suite.   Always ask your breeder what shots they have had and have a vet lined up before you bring home a new piggy. 

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